Ships Hulls

From wood to steel and beyond.

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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby brianc on Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:55 pm

Hey David ,you had to see this to believe it mate,I was totally gobsmacked when i saw it ,obviously its perfectly ok,thats the way its designed but......... :?
just check out the decks inboard ,just nuts mate,there like paper.
Love the way the modules all slide in though,now thats neat :-o
measure once ...then measure again.
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby snowwolflair on Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:42 pm

You have to remember if one of these ships is hit it is out of action, because all of the electronics go out of calibration. Nothing is shock mounted any more, it’s cheaper that way but the whole emphasis is on avoiding being hit rather than fighting on once damaged.
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby badbunny on Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:38 pm

When you consider the destructive power of modern ship and airborne weapons, I think that increased plating on modern warships is a pointless exercise just adding to a ship's cost and weight. However (I'm guessing) there must be some basic protection against small arms fire in the design specifications ?

Following that thought through... from my previous life working on armoured vehicles, I recall some "discussion" between the engineering/marketing bods about how they specified one particular vehicle's protection against 9mm small weapons fire. That vehicle had a 12mm plate steel skin. I interpreted that discussion as meaning that 12mm steel plate would not guarantee protection against 9mm small arms fire, by the way that the specification dictated protection caveated with distance of fire and angle of strike. Small mounted weapons, aircraft and small patrol boats all can have much greater calibre weapons than this, so I'm guessing that it would require considerable steel thickness (far in excess of the 22mm quoted for the keel of HMS Defender earlier in this thread) to provide decent protection against even "small arms" fire ! Does anyone know what sort of plate thickness is used on superstructure these days, or if there is a basic level of armour protection required on all ships structure?

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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby brianc on Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:46 pm

Hi Pete,
I really don`t think Armour protection even comes into the equation mate ,as you say destructive power of modern weapons are phenominal and I don`t even think a WWII capital ship with all its armour could with stand a direct hit from some modern weapons.As for small arms protection ,I would`nt have thought the designers would even take that into consideration :| personally I think its all down to cost in the end.
Just my opinoin though xcovko
measure once ...then measure again.
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby HarleyP on Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:53 pm

speaking about armour on modern warships.. The Danish "Standard Flex" vessel. is made of fiberglass. not much armour in that.. but its a very fast vessel.

http://www.navalhistory.dk/danish/soeva ... itauen.htm
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby snowwolflair on Mon Dec 08, 2008 3:37 pm

If they have incorporated carbon fiber or a Kevlar type weave it might be stronger than you think. It might deform but not burst.
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby HarleyP on Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:13 pm

Yes thats right. but it is "only" fiberglass. only thing "armoured" my son tells me,( he is sailing on one of those) is the communication room, and the room around the ammunition and gun area. nothing else..
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby ludsie on Sat Jun 30, 2012 1:07 pm

That is an amzing piece of work
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Re: Ships Hulls

Postby kimwhite on Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:13 am

Hi, I just saw this thread and can tell you how I made the dimples in Glamorgan's hull. Mask up the hull with masking tape of narrow width, then spray the hull with automotive spray-on putty - just one coat is enough! When totally dry, remove the tape and, voila! Go over the hull with a fine wet and dry attached to a soft thick cloth pad, or use one of those sanding blocks that look like soft foam rubber. The idea is not to sand away too much putty but to blur the edges quite a lot.

This method is best tried FIRST on a smooth test object like a big ceramic floor tile. But it works well.
cheers
Kim in Australia
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